You might expect a destination frequently in the news for conflict to be daunting, but my recent 10-day trip through Iraq, visiting cities like Baghdad, Mosul, and Erbil, proved to be one of the most profoundly enlightening experiences of my life, as I, a 36-year-old American, traveled with a diverse group and discovered a country that consistently defied all our preconceptions.

Discovering the Multifaceted Iraq: Safety, Challenges, and Unique Experiences

Our group, which was predominantly women my age, was accompanied by an Iraqi driver and a mix of local and American guides, and by the end of our journey, we all shared the same sentiment: Iraq was remarkably safe, a feeling that might sound naive given its recent history, but it was the genuine truth of our experience.

In Baghdad and Erbil, I had more opportunities to walk around by myself without ever feeling that there was something to be concerned about. The closest thing to that threat was when the crowds became large around me in response to my efforts to speak very simple Arabic. Iraqis were pretty eager simply to engage with one another; most of the time, what they wanted was selfies, which became funny and part of the whole experience that I enjoyed.

This does not mean that the security situation in Iraq is not complex. If anything, during my stay, Iranian drones were launched, which flew over my hotel in the holy city of Shia Muslims, Karbala. It served as a sobering reminder that Iraq belongs to that category of countries ping-ponged between Iran and the West, with missiles launched at it from it, and over it. That tension was palpable but did not translate into a feeling of danger on the streets.

In stark contrast, Iraqi Kurdistan presented a different narrative, where the 2003 U.S.-led invasion spurred an economic boom and fostered a unified Kurdish leadership, unlike the feuding factions in the south, creating a region where a significant 79 percent of adults hold a favorable view of the U.S., making it the most pro-American area in the Middle East.

What is remarkable here is the relative safety in the Kurdish north. U.S. actions have underpinned Iraqi Kurdistan’s autonomy since the Gulf War and, as such, been a factor in its stability and prosperity. It was evident just last year, in 2022, that 88% of adults in Iraqi Kurdistan shared an opinion of feeling safe walking alone at night, matching that of the low-crime Gulf states and far above those in other parts of Iraq.

It has emerged as a sanctuary for the beleaguered minorities of the country, especially its ancient Christian communities. The Iraqi Christians are estimated to have decreased from 1.5 million before the war to as few as 200,000 today, with about half now living in the Kurdish region. This reputation is reflected in the 84% of people who say their city or area is a good place for ethnic or racial minorities, significantly higher than in any other country in the Middle East.

Economic problems, however, have started to develop in Iraqi Kurdistan. Indeed, the clear economic demarcation that once set the Kurdish region apart from the rest of Iraq is slowly wearing off. Residents’ complaints are now more similar than different about the availability of jobs and satisfaction with what they can buy or do. Reflecting a broader trend: as Iraq proper improves after decades of conflict, the Kurdish north faces an increasingly familiar challenge—that of maintaining its exceptional status.

While Iraqi Kurdistan’s political and economic progress faces ongoing challenges from Shia militias, resurgent ISIS cells, and Iran since 2017, alongside simmering economic discontent due to unreliable public services and perceived corruption, the region still stands as a bastion of security and a firm partner with the United States, demonstrating remarkable intra-Kurdish unity.

As I reflect back on my journey, the reactions of friends and family when I announced that I was going to head to Iraq always come to mind: shocked and concerned responses molded with years of news stories about car bombings, ISIS occupation, and violent warfare. Iraq isn’t typically considered part of the American travel radar, but my experience says it should be.

Additional care needs to be taken when traveling to Iraq, especially as an American lady. One also needs to be fully aware of the strained relationship between the two countries to some extent. The Iraqis were wary of my nationality, while some were interested in having an American visitor to their country. Being a woman meant dressing per their strict modest dress code and using respect for cultural norms as one navigated patriarchal society.

Any person who contemplates a visit to Iraq needs to first take stock of their comfort level when it comes to travel risks and cultural differences. Have you traveled outside Western countries before? Are you comfortable being the only woman in a room? Can you handle a bit of ‘roughing it’? Your answers will define whether a trip to Iraq would be for you.

Iraq is not for the faint of heart, but it is an opportunity for the adventurous spirit to be a real explorer. The country is huge and varied, and it gives plenty of opportunities to get off the beaten path. Of course, the risks exist, but they are controllable by preparation and awareness.

Iraq was a truly revelatory experience, fundamentally shifting my perspective and opening my eyes to the incredible warmth and resilience of its people, offering unique adventures that range from the country’s surprising safety to the genuine hospitality encountered everywhere, showcasing a land of contrasts where the scars of war meet the promise of peace and ancient history intertwines with modern complexities, leaving a lasting impression far beyond the headlines.

Navigating the Complexities: Kurdistan’s Unique Position

The autonomous region of Iraqi Kurdistan serves as a compelling case study within the broader context of Iraq’s recent history, and my exploration there was an eye-opening immersion into the intricate nuances of a land that has managed to cultivate a sense of stability and prosperity amidst the widespread turmoil affecting much of Iraq.

The Kurdish people have long been known for their resilience and determination to maintain their cultural identity and autonomy. This was evident as I traveled through the cities and mountains of Iraqi Kurdistan, witnessing the pride and sense of community that permeate the region. The 2003 U.S.-led invasion, which brought devastation to other parts of Iraq, had a markedly different impact here. It was a catalyst for economic growth and political unity among Kurdish factions, a stark contrast to the strife and instability elsewhere.

The goodwill towards the United States in Iraqi Kurdistan is palpable. With nearly four in five adults expressing approval of U.S. leadership, the region stands as the most pro-American entity in the Middle East. This sentiment is a testament to the strategic partnership between the U.S. and the Kurdish people, which has been instrumental in fostering the region’s relative safety and prosperity.

Safety is a paramount concern in Iraqi Kurdistan, with the region’s security forces effectively managing its borders and neutralizing threats, enabling residents to experience a level of security comparable to low-crime Gulf states, a remarkable achievement reflected in the high percentage of adults who feel secure walking alone at night, especially considering the area’s turbulent past.

Iraqi Kurdistan has also become a beacon of hope for many of Iraq’s embattled minorities, particularly its ancient Christian communities. The region’s reputation as a safe haven is not just anecdotal; it’s backed by the high percentage of residents who believe their cities are good places for ethnic or racial minorities. This is a significant accomplishment in a region where sectarian conflict has often been the norm.

The economic landscape in Iraqi Kurdistan is undergoing a transformation, as the previously clear divide between its prosperity and the rest of Iraq begins to blur, with residents now confronting similar issues related to job availability and satisfaction with their living standards, indicating that as Iraq as a whole recovers, the Kurdistan region will need to strive even harder to maintain its distinct advantage.

Not without challenges, the political and economic comebacks in the region test the regional stability since the defeat of IS in 2017 by Shia militias, remnants of Islamic State cells, as well as Iran. Added to this level of complication is the economic dissatisfaction related to unreliable public services, unemployment, and perceived corruption. The strong alliance with the U.S. and internal unity allowed this region to remain a bastion of security despite all odds.

Reflecting on the reactions of friends and family to my travel plans, I realize that the image of Iraq in the American psyche is that of danger and conflict. My personal experiences in Iraqi Kurdistan, however, are those of peace, safety, and an attitude of warm welcomes toward Americans. It is a story that ought to be shared and understood by people who know only the headlines about Iraq.

While one would need to understand the region’s history and the relationship it has with the U.S. to some extent as an American, and more so as a woman, apprehension towards Americans exists; many Kurds are happy to have visitors from America. Respect for modest dress codes and cultural norms is key for any woman visiting the area.

If you’re contemplating a visit to Iraqi Kurdistan, it’s essential to honestly assess your personal risk tolerance and comfort with significant cultural differences, asking yourself if you’ve traveled extensively outside the West before, if you’re comfortable being the sole woman in certain situations, and if you can handle a degree of ‘roughing it,’ as these are crucial questions to consider for determining if this part of Iraq is the right destination for you.

Iraqi Kurdistan is an adventurous traveler’s destination. It is a place and a time to be an explorer―off the beaten track, amongst a culture that’s ancient but in formation. While dangers exist, they can be managed through careful planning and awareness of the local situation.

My time in Iraqi Kurdistan was both deeply enriching and multifaceted, resisting any simplistic categorization, as it proudly displays a legacy of war alongside the vibrant dynamism of a forward-looking society, offering intrepid travelers a compelling blend of history, culture, and natural beauty that testifies to the unyielding spirit of the Kurdish people in their pursuit of a future built on peace and prosperity.